Image Source: i.ytimg.com
Complete Guide: How To Reshaft Golf Irons Quickly & Easily
What is reshafting a golf iron? Reshafting means taking out an old golf shaft and putting in a new one. This often happens if a shaft breaks or if you want a different type. Can you reshaft golf irons yourself? Yes, you can! Many golfers choose to do this as a DIY golf club repair. It saves money and lets you customize your clubs. This guide will show you how to do it quickly and easily. You will learn every step, from removing the old shaft to putting on a new grip. We will cover all the tools you need, like a golf club repair kit, and how to use them.
Why Reshaft Your Golf Irons?
Golf clubs work hard. Over time, shafts can break or wear out. Sometimes, a shaft might not be the right fit for your swing. Reshafting helps in many ways.
- Broken Shafts: This is the most common reason. A shaft can bend or snap from a bad hit or accident.
- Wrong Flex: Golf shafts come in different stiffness levels, called flex. If your shaft is too stiff or too soft, it can hurt your shots. A new shaft with the right flex helps you hit better.
- Club Upgrade: You might want to try a newer shaft material or design. For instance, many people enjoy reshafting steel golf irons to change their feel.
- Custom Fitting: A club fitter might suggest a specific shaft for you. You can then put that exact shaft on your club.
- Better Feel: A new shaft can change how the club feels. It can make shots feel smoother or more powerful.
Reshafting gives your clubs new life. It can also save you money compared to buying new clubs.
Tools and Materials You Will Need
Having the right tools makes the job easy. A good golf club repair kit will have most of these items.
Essential Tools
- Work Bench with a Vise: This holds the club head steady. It is very important.
- Heat Gun or Propane Torch: You need heat to loosen the old glue (epoxy). A heat gun is safer for beginners.
- Golf Shaft Removal Tool: This helps twist the head off once the epoxy is hot.
- Wire Brush: To clean inside the club head’s hosel (the hole where the shaft goes).
- Sandpaper (100-200 grit): To prepare the new shaft tip.
- Hacksaw or Shaft Cutter: To trim the new shaft to the correct length. A shaft cutter gives a cleaner cut.
- Ruler or Measuring Tape: For measuring shaft length.
- Marker: To mark cuts on the shaft.
- Sharp Knife or Hook Blade: For removing old grips.
- Vise Clamp (Rubber Jaw Protectors): Protects the shaft when you hold it in the vise.
- Bucket: To hold water if using a torch for safety.
Materials
- New Golf Shaft: Make sure it is the right type and flex for your club head.
- Golf Club Epoxy: This is a strong glue that holds the shaft to the club head. Two-part epoxy is common.
- New Ferrule: This is the black plastic ring that slides over the shaft, next to the club head. It makes the club look good.
- New Grip and Grip Tape: You will need to regrip your club after reshafting.
- Grip Solvent: Helps slide the new grip on easily.
- Rubbing Alcohol or Acetone: For cleaning surfaces before epoxying.
- Rags: For cleaning and wiping.
Readying Your Workspace
Before you start, set up your work area. This makes the job safer and smoother.
- Pick a Spot: Choose a clean, well-lit place. A garage or workshop is ideal.
- Be Safe: If using a heat gun or torch, work in a well-aired area. Keep flammables away. Have a bucket of water nearby if using a torch, just in case.
- Gather Tools: Get all your tools and materials ready. Lay them out so they are easy to reach. This saves time and stress.
Step-by-Step Guide: Reshafting Golf Irons
Now, let’s get into the details of reshafting your iron. Follow these steps carefully.
Step 1: Removing the Old Shaft
This is the first big step. You need to get the old shaft out without hurting the club head.
- Remove the Grip (Optional but Recommended): You can try to save the grip, but it is often easier to just cut it off. Use a sharp knife or hook blade. Cut away from yourself. Once the grip is off, remove any old grip tape. This step is also the first part of regripping golf clubs.
- Clamp the Club Head: Put the club head firmly in your vise. Use the rubber jaw protectors. Clamp the hosel, not the face or sole of the club. Make sure it is tight and secure.
- Heat the Hosel: The old shaft is held in place with epoxy. You need to melt this epoxy.
- Using a Heat Gun: Point the heat gun at the hosel area. Move it around slowly. Heat for 30-60 seconds. Do not hold it in one spot for too long.
- Using a Torch: If you are comfortable with a torch, use a low flame. Heat the hosel quickly, moving the flame around. Do not let the metal glow red. Be very careful not to burn the ferrule or paint.
- Watch for Smoke: You will see a bit of smoke. This means the epoxy is melting.
- Remove Golf Iron Head: Once the hosel is hot, quickly grab the shaft with your other hand. Use a twisting and pulling motion. If it is hard, use a golf shaft removal tool. This tool clamps onto the shaft and gives you leverage to twist and pull. If it still does not move, heat it again for a short time. Be firm but gentle. The head should come off with a good twist.
- Clean the Hosel: After the head comes off, you will see old epoxy inside the hosel. Use a wire brush to clean it out completely. Make sure the hole is smooth and clean. This is important for the new epoxy to stick well. You can also use a small drill bit (just slightly smaller than the hosel) to carefully ream out any stuck epoxy. Clean any old epoxy from the shaft tip too.
Step 2: Preparing the New Shaft
The new shaft needs some prep work before it goes into the club head.
- Tip Prep: The tip of the new shaft, the part that goes into the hosel, needs to be rough. This helps the epoxy grip. Use 100-200 grit sandpaper. Lightly sand about 1.5 to 2 inches up from the tip. Rough it up until it looks hazy. Do not sand too much.
- Measure and Cut (If Needed):
- Club Length: Decide on your desired club length. This is measured from the ground to the very top of the grip. Most shafts are sold longer than needed.
- Measuring for Cutting: Insert the prepped shaft tip into the club head’s hosel. Do not use epoxy yet. Now, measure the club from the ground (imagine the sole of the club resting flat) to the end of the shaft. Mark the shaft at your desired length.
- Understanding golf club swing weight: The length of the shaft greatly affects the club’s swing weight. A longer shaft makes the swing weight heavier, and a shorter shaft makes it lighter. If you cut too much, you will lighten the swing weight. You can add weight later if needed.
- Golf Shaft Cutting: Clamp the shaft firmly in your vise, using rubber jaw protectors. Make sure the mark is clear. Use a hacksaw or a proper golf shaft cutting tool. A shaft cutter gives a cleaner, straighter cut. Cut slowly and carefully. After cutting, lightly file the sharp edges.
- Install Golf Club Ferrule: Slide the new ferrule onto the shaft. The wider end goes towards the club head. Push it up the shaft, away from the tip, for now. It should sit loosely. You will push it down fully after the epoxy dries.
Step 3: Mixing and Applying Epoxy
This is where the strong bond happens. Use a good quality golf club epoxy.
- Read Instructions: Always read the specific instructions on your epoxy. Mixing ratios can vary.
- Prepare Epoxy: Most golf epoxies are two-part (resin and hardener). Squeeze out equal amounts onto a disposable surface like a piece of cardboard.
- Mix Thoroughly: Use a small stick or mixing tool to mix the two parts completely. Mix for 1-2 minutes until the color is even. Do not rush this step. Proper mixing ensures the epoxy cures correctly and holds strong.
- Apply Epoxy:
- Apply a thin, even layer of mixed epoxy to the sanded tip of the new shaft. Make sure to cover the entire prepped area.
- Apply a small amount of epoxy inside the clean hosel of the club head.
Step 4: Installing the New Shaft
Now, it is time to put the two pieces together.
- Insert the Shaft: Gently push the epoxy-coated shaft tip into the epoxy-coated hosel. Twist the shaft as you push it in. This helps spread the epoxy evenly and removes air bubbles.
- Align the Shaft: Make sure the shaft is fully seated in the hosel. There should be no gap. Check the alignment of the shaft. If your shaft has a logo or graphic, align it to your preference (e.g., facing up when you address the ball).
- Wipe Excess Epoxy: Some epoxy will likely squeeze out. Use a rag with rubbing alcohol or acetone to clean it off immediately. Do this before it starts to dry.
- Cure Time: This is a very important step. The golf club epoxy needs time to fully cure and harden. This usually takes 24 hours. Do not touch or use the club during this time. Place it upright in a corner or a club stand. A full cure ensures maximum strength.
Step 5: Finishing Touches: Ferrule and Grip
After the epoxy is fully dry, you can finish your newly reshafted club.
- Position the Ferrule: Gently slide the ferrule down the shaft until it meets the hosel. It should sit flush against the club head.
- Shape and Polish the Ferrule: Ferrules sometimes do not sit perfectly flush. You can use fine sandpaper (400-600 grit) to lightly sand the ferrule down to blend it with the hosel. Then, use a rag with acetone or a ferrule polish to give it a nice, shiny finish. This helps to install golf club ferrule smoothly and look professional.
- Regripping Golf Clubs: Now it is time for a new grip. This is a crucial part of the DIY golf club repair process.
- Apply Grip Tape: Wrap double-sided grip tape around the shaft where the grip will go. Make sure it is straight and smooth. Leave about half an inch of shaft showing at the top.
- Apply Solvent: Seal the bottom end of the grip with your finger. Pour grip solvent into the grip. Shake it around inside, then pour the excess solvent over the grip tape on the shaft.
- Slide On the Grip: Quickly slide the grip onto the shaft, making sure it goes on straight. Push it all the way down until it is fully seated.
- Align and Dry: Make sure the grip is aligned properly (logo facing up, or as you prefer). Let it dry for several hours, or even overnight, before using the club.
Important Considerations for a Perfect Reshaft
Beyond the steps, a few things help make your reshaft job top-notch.
Shaft Flex and Material Selection
Choosing the right shaft is key. It impacts how the club performs for you.
- Steel vs. Graphite:
- Steel shafts are heavier and give more feel. They are common in irons for control. This is often part of reshafting steel golf irons.
- Graphite shafts are lighter and can help with clubhead speed. They also absorb more shock.
- Flex: This is the stiffness of the shaft. It comes in Ladies (L), Senior (A), Regular (R), Stiff (S), and Extra Stiff (X).
- Slower swing speeds need a softer flex.
- Faster swing speeds need a stiffer flex.
- The right flex helps you hit the ball straighter and farther.
Club Length and Lie Angle
These two things are also very important for how you hit the ball.
- Club Length: We talked about cutting the shaft. The correct length helps you stand in the right position. It impacts your posture and path.
- Lie Angle: This is the angle of the club head to the ground at impact. Reshafting does not change the lie angle directly. But if you change shaft length a lot, it can make your old lie angle less ideal. Adjusting lie angle usually needs special bending tools.
Swing Weight Accuracy
What is golf club swing weight? Swing weight tells you how heavy a club feels when you swing it. It is a balance point, not just total weight. It is measured on a special scale (L-W-A-B-C-D-E-F). A typical iron might be D2.
- Impact of Changes:
- A longer shaft increases swing weight.
- A heavier shaft increases swing weight.
- A heavier grip decreases swing weight.
- Adjusting Swing Weight:
- Tip Weights: Small weights can be put inside the shaft tip before epoxying. These are good for increasing swing weight.
- Lead Tape: Can be added to the club head. This is an easy way to add small amounts of weight.
- Heavier/Lighter Grips: Changing grip weight affects swing weight.
- Measuring Swing Weight: If you want to be precise, you will need a swing weight scale. For most DIY golf club repair jobs, getting the length right and matching grip weight is enough.
Troubleshooting Common Reshafting Issues
Sometimes, things do not go as planned. Here are fixes for common problems.
- Club Head Won’t Come Off:
- You likely need more heat. Reheat the hosel, making sure to spread the heat evenly.
- Use more force with the golf shaft removal tool. Twist and pull firmly.
- Sometimes, old epoxy is very strong. Patience is key.
- New Shaft Won’t Go In:
- The hosel might not be clean enough. Re-clean it thoroughly with a wire brush. Make sure no old epoxy is left.
- The shaft tip might be too thick. This is rare but can happen with some shafts. Check the shaft tip diameter against the hosel size.
- Not enough epoxy applied, or it is drying too fast. Mix a new batch and apply quickly.
- Epoxy Not Curing:
- Did you mix the two parts correctly and thoroughly? This is the most common reason. If not mixed right, it will stay gooey.
- Is the room temperature too cold? Epoxy cures best in warm, dry conditions.
- If it does not cure, you will need to remove the shaft again, clean everything, and start over with new epoxy.
- Club Head Feels Loose:
- This means the epoxy bond failed. You must remove the shaft, clean everything, and re-epoxy.
- This usually happens if the hosel or shaft tip was not clean, or the epoxy was not mixed well, or it was disturbed during curing.
Benefits of DIY Golf Club Reshafting
Doing your own club repair has many rewards.
- Cost Savings: Professional reshafting can be expensive. Doing it yourself saves you money on labor costs. You only pay for parts. This is a big plus for DIY golf club repair.
- Learning a New Skill: You gain a valuable skill. This knowledge can help you with other club repairs or changes in the future.
- Customization: You get full control over your club. You pick the exact shaft, length, and grip that you want. This lets you fine-tune your clubs to your game.
- Satisfaction: There is a great feeling of accomplishment when you play a round with a club you fixed yourself.
Maintenance Tips for Your Reshafted Irons
Once your club is reshafted, a little care keeps it in top shape.
- Regular Cleaning: Clean your club heads and shafts after each round. Use a damp cloth. This stops dirt and grime from building up.
- Proper Storage: Store your clubs in a golf bag or rack. Keep them in a place with stable temperatures. Extreme heat or cold can affect epoxy over time. Avoid leaving them in a hot car trunk.
- Inspect Often: Look at the club head and shaft connection every now and then. Make sure the ferrule is snug. Check for any wobbles or loose feelings. Catching problems early can prevent bigger issues.
- Regrip as Needed: Even if you did not reshaft, regripping golf clubs is a common task. Grips wear out. Change them when they get slick or hard. Fresh grips give you better control.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Can I reshaft any golf iron?
Yes, most golf irons can be reshafted. The process is similar for most brands. Just make sure the new shaft’s tip diameter matches the hosel bore of your club head.
Q2: How long does golf club epoxy take to dry?
Most golf club epoxies need at least 24 hours to fully cure and reach maximum strength. Some fast-setting epoxies may be ready in 30 minutes to a few hours, but 24 hours is always safest for a strong, lasting bond.
Q3: When should I reshaft my golf iron instead of buying a new one?
Reshafting is a good choice if your club head is still in great shape, but the shaft is broken, bent, or just not the right fit. If the club head is old, damaged, or you want a completely new design, then buying a new club might be better.
Q4: Is it really worth doing DIY golf club repair myself?
Yes, for most golfers, it is worth it. You save money, gain a useful skill, and get to customize your clubs exactly how you like. Plus, it is a fun project for golf lovers. With the right tools and patience, anyone can do it.
Q5: What’s the biggest mistake people make when reshafting?
The most common mistakes are not properly cleaning the hosel, not mixing the epoxy well enough, or not letting the epoxy fully cure before using the club. These can all lead to a weak bond and the club head coming loose. Take your time with these steps.