Can you change golf club shafts yourself? Yes, you can. Many golfers do this at home. It takes the right tools and a careful approach. What is golf club reshafting? It means putting a new shaft onto an old club head. It is a good way to fix a broken club or change how your club plays. This guide will show you how to do this “DIY golf club repair” job step by step, just like a pro.
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Why Change a Golf Club Shaft?
Golf club shafts break sometimes. Or you might want a different kind of shaft. Changing your shaft can help your game. You might hit the ball farther or straighter. It can also make a club feel better to swing. This is often done for “driver shaft replacement,” but you can change shafts on irons and woods too.
Here are common reasons to change a shaft:
* The old shaft broke. This is clear. A broken shaft makes the club useless.
* You want a better fit. Your swing changes. Or you find a shaft that works better for you.
* To change how the club feels. A lighter or stiffer shaft can change ball flight.
* To update an old club head. A new shaft can bring an old head back to life.
* To fix a slice or hook. A shaft with a different flex or bend point can help.
Tools You Will Need
Doing this job needs special tools. Having the right tools makes the work easier and safer. Here is what you need:
| Tool Name | What It Does | Why You Need It |
|---|---|---|
| Heat Gun | Heats up old glue to remove the shaft. | Melts “golf club epoxy” holding the shaft in place. |
| Vice with Rubber Jaws | Holds the club head steady. | Keeps the club from moving while you work. |
| Shaft Pulling Tool | Helps pull the shaft out of the club head. | Makes “golf shaft removal” safe and easy. |
| Hacksaw or Shaft Cutter | Cuts the new shaft to the right length. | Helps you get the right club length. |
| Wire Brush | Cleans old glue from inside the club head. | Makes sure the new shaft glues in well. |
| Sandpaper/Abrasion Pad | Scuffs up the tip of the new shaft. | Helps “golf club epoxy” stick better. |
| Golf Club Epoxy | Strong glue that holds the shaft to the head. | Holds the new shaft tightly in place. |
| Ferrules | A small plastic ring that covers the gap. | Makes the club look good and protects the joint. |
| Gloves | Protect your hands from heat and epoxy. | Keeps your hands clean and safe. |
| Safety Glasses | Protect your eyes from heat and debris. | Keeps your eyes safe. |
| Mask | Stops you from breathing dust or fumes. | Protects your lungs. |
| Acetone or Solvent | Cleans off old glue and epoxy. | Cleans parts for better gluing. |
| Swingweight Scale | Measures the club’s balance. | Helps you match the club’s feel to your other clubs. |
| Tip Weights | Small weights added inside the shaft tip. | Used to adjust the club’s “golf club swingweighting.” |
| Grip Tape | Special tape for putting on new grips. | Helps the grip stick to the shaft. |
| Grip Solvent | Liquid that helps the grip slide on. | Makes grip installation easy. |
| Hook Blade Knife | Cuts off old grips and grip tape. | Useful for removing old grips cleanly. |
Removing the Old Shaft: Step-by-Step
This part is key to “golf shaft removal.” Take your time.
Safety First
Always wear safety glasses and gloves. A mask is good for fumes. Heat can be dangerous.
Preparing the Club
First, put the club head in the vice. Use rubber jaw clamps. These stop the club head from getting scratched. Make sure the club head is held tight and will not move. It is very important that it is secure.
Heating the Hosel
The “hosel” is the part of the club head where the shaft goes in. Old glue, or “golf club epoxy,” holds the shaft inside. You need to melt this glue. Take your heat gun. Point it at the hosel. Move the heat gun around. Heat the metal, not the shaft itself too much. The glue will soften after a minute or two. You might see a little smoke. This is normal. It means the glue is getting hot. Keep the heat on for a little while. This melts all the glue inside.
Pulling the Shaft
Once the hosel is hot, get your “shaft pulling tool” ready. This tool makes pulling the shaft much safer. If you do not have one, you can use a vice and strong pulling. But the tool is best.
Place the shaft pulling tool on the shaft. Make sure it is secure. Some tools grip the shaft, and you turn a handle. As you turn, it pushes the shaft out of the head. If you are doing it by hand, wear thick gloves. Twist the shaft back and forth while pulling hard. The goal is to separate the shaft from the club head. This is “club head removal golf.” It needs some force. But do not use too much. If it is still very hard, heat the hosel again. The old epoxy must be soft. Once the shaft comes out, put it aside.
Prepping the Club Head for the New Shaft
Now that the old shaft is out, the club head needs to be clean. This step is very important. New epoxy needs a clean surface to stick well.
Cleaning the Hosel
Look inside the hosel. You will see old glue bits. There might be leftover steel or graphite pieces. Use a wire brush. Push it into the hosel. Spin it around. Clean out all the old glue. You want the inside of the hosel to be smooth and clean. Use a little acetone on a rag. Wipe out the inside. This makes sure no grease or dirt is left. A clean hosel means a strong bond for the new shaft.
Getting the New Shaft Ready
The new shaft needs some work before you can put it in. This is called “shaft tip preparation.”
Cutting the Shaft Tip
New shafts usually come too long. You need to cut the “tip” end. The tip is the end that goes into the club head. How much you cut depends on the club and shaft. This changes the shaft’s “flex” or stiffness. It also sets the final club length. Use your hacksaw or a special shaft cutter. Make a clean, straight cut. If you are not sure how much to cut, look up charts online. Or ask a golf pro. Cutting the wrong amount can change how the club plays.
Abrading the Tip
After cutting, the very end of the shaft needs to be roughed up. This helps the “golf club epoxy” stick better. Take sandpaper or an abrasion pad. Rub the tip of the shaft. Rub it on the part that will go inside the club head. Make sure it is scuffed up all around. Do not get too much dust on it. You can wipe it clean with acetone after. This makes the surface ready for gluing.
Gluing the Shaft: The Epoxy Process
This is where the new shaft gets fixed to the club head. Use “golf club epoxy” made for golf clubs.
Choosing the Right Epoxy
Golf club epoxy comes in two parts. You mix them. There are fast-drying and slow-drying types.
* Fast-drying epoxy: Dries in 5-10 minutes. Good if you are in a hurry. But it gives you less time to fix mistakes.
* Slow-drying epoxy: Dries in 24 hours. Gives you plenty of time to set the shaft right. It often makes a stronger bond. For your first time, slow-drying epoxy is better.
Mixing the Epoxy
Always follow the epoxy’s instructions. Usually, you mix equal parts of each tube. Put a small amount of Part A on a clean surface. Then put the same amount of Part B next to it. Use a mixing stick. Mix them together very well. Mix for at least one minute. The mix should be smooth and one color. Do not mix too much at once. It will dry before you can use it all.
Applying the Epoxy
Now, apply the mixed epoxy.
1. Inside the Hosel: Use a small stick or brush. Put epoxy all around the inside of the club head’s hosel. Make sure the whole inside surface is covered.
2. On the Shaft Tip: Put epoxy all around the prepared tip of the new shaft. Cover the part that will go inside the hosel.
Make sure both surfaces have a good, even coat of epoxy. Do not put on too little. You want a strong bond.
Fitting the New Shaft Into the Club Head
This step needs care and good timing. The epoxy starts to set once mixed.
Inserting the Shaft
Take the shaft. Push the epoxied tip firmly into the club head’s hosel. Push it all the way in. It should fit snugly. Twist the shaft a little as you push. This helps spread the epoxy evenly.
Aligning the Shaft
Once the shaft is in, check its alignment. The shaft’s logo should be facing straight up. Or it should match how you like your grip to sit. Make sure the shaft is straight in the club head. Look at it from all sides. If it is crooked, pull it out a little, adjust, and push it back in. Do this quickly before the epoxy starts to get too stiff.
Adding the Ferrule
The “ferrule” is the small plastic ring. It sits at the top of the hosel. It makes the club look neat. It also helps protect the joint. Slide the ferrule onto the shaft. Push it down until it sits tightly against the top of the club head’s hosel. You might need to twist it a little. Make sure it is seated well. This is “ferrule installation golf.” Some ferrules need to be sanded later for a perfect fit, but that is a fine detail for later.
Cleaning Excess Epoxy
Some epoxy might squeeze out when you push the shaft in. Wipe it off right away. Use a rag and a little acetone. Clean all extra epoxy from the hosel and shaft. It is much harder to clean once it dries.
Letting the Glue Dry
This is the most important step for a strong bond. Do not rush it.
Curing Time is Key
The epoxy needs to dry completely. This is called “curing.”
* For fast-drying epoxy, wait at least 30 minutes before moving the club. Wait 24 hours before hitting balls.
* For slow-drying epoxy, wait at least 24 hours before touching the club much. Wait 48 hours before hitting balls.
Always check the epoxy’s specific instructions. If you use the club too soon, the bond will be weak. The shaft could break loose. Lay the club flat or stand it upright in a safe place. Make sure it cannot fall over. Do not put weight on the shaft or head. Let it cure fully.
Setting the Club’s Balance: Swingweighting
After the epoxy cures, the club is almost ready. But it is smart to check its balance. This is called “golf club swingweighting.”
What is Swingweight?
Swingweight is a measure of how heavy a golf club feels when you swing it. It is not just about total weight. It is about how the weight is spread out. Clubs usually have a “swingweight” from C0 to F9. Most golfers like clubs that match each other in swingweight. This makes all clubs feel the same in their hands.
Checking Swingweight
Use a swingweight scale. Place the club on the scale. The scale will give you a letter and number. For example, D2. If you are changing a shaft, try to match the swingweight of your old club. Or match it to your other clubs.
Adjusting Swingweight
If your new club’s swingweight is too light, you can add weight. Small “tip weights” can be put inside the shaft tip. You push them down before gluing the shaft. Or, you can add lead tape to the club head. Adding weight to the head makes the swingweight higher. If it is too heavy, you can trim the shaft slightly shorter. Or use a lighter grip.
Putting On the New Grip
The last step to make your club ready to play is adding the grip.
Preparing the Shaft
First, cover the shaft where the grip will go. Use special double-sided grip tape. Wrap it around the shaft. Make sure there are no gaps. Leave a little tape over the end of the shaft. Fold it into the hole. This stops solvent from going into the shaft.
Applying Grip Solvent
Put a cap on the end of the shaft. Pour grip solvent inside the new grip. Shake the grip. Make sure the inside is wet. Then, pour the solvent from the grip onto the tape on the shaft. Make sure the tape is very wet.
Sliding On the Grip
Work fast. While the tape is wet, slide the grip onto the shaft. Push it on firmly. Once it is on, quickly check its alignment. Make sure the grip’s logo is straight. Once it starts to dry, it is hard to move. Let the grip dry for a few hours before using. This lets the solvent evaporate.
Final Checks and Play
Inspect Your Work
Look over your club.
* Is the shaft straight?
* Is the ferrule tight?
* Is there any leftover epoxy?
* Is the grip on straight and dry?
Test on the Range
Once everything is dry and secure, take your club to the driving range. Hit some balls. See how it feels. Does it swing well? Does it hit the ball as you hoped? If not, you might need to adjust the swingweight slightly. Or make notes for your next reshafting project.
Avoiding Common Mistakes
Changing a shaft can go wrong. Here are common errors and how to avoid them:
- Not Enough Heat When Removing: If the shaft won’t budge, do not force it too much. Heat the hosel again. The epoxy needs to be soft.
- Not Cleaning the Hosel Enough: If old glue is left, the new epoxy cannot stick well. Clean it until it shines.
- Wrong Epoxy Mix: Always mix equal parts of the two epoxy tubes. If the mix is wrong, the glue will not hold. It will be weak.
- Rushing Curing Time: This is a big one. If you play too soon, the shaft will come loose. Or worse, it could break free during a swing. Give it the full drying time.
- Not Setting Swingweight: Your new club might feel odd. If you do not check and adjust swingweight, it may feel different from your other clubs. This can hurt your swing.
- Damaging the Shaft or Head: Be gentle. Use tools carefully. A vice with rubber jaws protects the club.
- Wrong Shaft Length: Measure twice, cut once. An improperly cut shaft changes the club’s feel and flex.
When to Call a Pro
While “DIY golf club repair” is rewarding, sometimes it is best to get help.
* If you are unsure: If any step feels too hard, stop. A pro can do the job right.
* If you lack tools: Buying all the tools can be costly. If you only need one shaft changed, a pro might be cheaper.
* For very expensive clubs: If you have a high-end driver, do not risk it. A mistake can ruin the club head or new shaft.
* If you need a perfect fit: A pro has more tools and skills to find the exact right shaft for your swing. They can also do precise “golf club swingweighting.”
Advantages of DIY Reshafting
There are good reasons to change a shaft yourself:
* Cost Savings: Paying a pro can be pricey. Doing it yourself saves money on labor.
* Learning New Skills: It is satisfying to fix your own gear. You learn how your clubs work.
* Custom Fit: You can try different shafts. You can dial in the length and swingweight just how you like it. This gives you a truly custom club.
* Quick Fixes: If a shaft breaks before a big game, you can fix it fast if you have the tools.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to change a golf club shaft?
The actual work takes about 30-60 minutes. But you must add the epoxy drying time. This is usually 24-48 hours.
Can I use any shaft on any club head?
No. Shafts come in different tip sizes. Make sure your new shaft’s tip fits your club head’s hosel size. Also, not all shafts work well for all club types. A driver shaft is different from an iron shaft.
What if I mess up when gluing the shaft?
If the epoxy is still wet, you can pull the shaft out. Clean both parts with acetone. Then re-mix and re-apply the epoxy. If it is dry, you will need to heat the hosel again and remove the shaft. This is why using slow-drying epoxy for your first time is smart. It gives you more time to correct mistakes.
Is it worth it to change my own golf club shafts?
For many golfers, yes! It saves money. It lets you customize your clubs. And it is a great skill to learn. If you plan to change several shafts over time, buying the tools pays off.
Changing a golf club shaft is a rewarding “DIY golf club repair.” It lets you fine-tune your clubs. It can improve your game. With the right tools and patience, you can do it like a pro.